Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city is no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.